縫(feng)(feng)(feng)紉就是把衣片(pian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)合成服裝(zhuang)的工(gong)藝。可分(fen)為(wei)手縫(feng)(feng)(feng)工(gong)藝、機縫(feng)(feng)(feng)工(gong)藝、特殊工(gong)藝等。

　　手縫工藝

　　采用(yong)手(shou)針(zhen)(zhen)進行縫制的工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)。是(shi)中國的傳統手(shou)工(gong)(gong)技藝(yi)。很多針(zhen)(zhen)法(fa)及其作用(yong)尚不能用(yong)現代縫紉機替代。具有線跡精細、平整，針(zhen)(zhen)法(fa)豐富等特點，被譽為(wei)高檔工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)。　手(shou)縫工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)的主(zhu)要工(gong)(gong)具是(shi)手(shou)縫針(zhen)(zhen)和頂針(zhen)(zhen)箍。絲綢等纖(xian)維(wei)較細的織物(wu)宜(yi)用(yong)7～9號針(zhen)(zhen);鎖眼釘紐宜(yi)用(yong)4～5號針(zhen)(zhen)，一般毛料則用(yong)粗(cu)細適中的6～8號針(zhen)(zhen)。

　　機縫工藝

　　采用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)紉機進行縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)制(zhi)的(de)工(gong)藝。具有(you)針(zhen)跡整(zheng)齊(qi)、工(gong)效高等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)優(you)點。常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)機縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)工(gong)藝有(you)以下(xia)(xia)幾種(zhong)。①合(he)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(含兜縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng));將衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)組合(he)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)暗(an)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)組合(he)或(huo)(huo)袋(dai)蓋(gai)、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)領、袖(xiu)(xiu)頭(tou)等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)三(san)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)的(de)翻轉部(bu)件(jian)。②包(bao)(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：以一(yi)(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)包(bao)(bao)住(zhu)另一(yi)(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)，再(zai)作第(di)二或(huo)(huo)第(di)三(san)次(ci)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)。有(you)明包(bao)(bao)，暗(an)包(bao)(bao)之別(bie)。一(yi)(yi)般(ban)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)布服裝(zhuang)不鎖邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)的(de)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)。③咬(yao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：由上下(xia)(xia)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)咬(yao)住(zhu)中間一(yi)(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)，正面緝(ji)(ji)明線(xian)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)裝(zhuang)袖(xiu)(xiu)頭(tou)、腰頭(tou)等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)。④騎(qi)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)塊織(zhi)物縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)銜(xian)接(jie)(不疊起)，在銜(xian)接(jie)處緝(ji)(ji)W狀線(xian)跡，使兩(liang)塊布互相牽牢。一(yi)(yi)般(ban)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)高檔(dang)服裝(zhuang)的(de)襯布拼(pin)(pin)接(jie)和(he)(he)收顙(sang)。⑤平接(jie)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)塊織(zhi)物縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)拼(pin)(pin)接(jie)，互為銜(xian)接(jie)補充(chong)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)接(jie)長衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)部(bu)件(jian)等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑥平疊縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)塊織(zhi)物縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)重(zhong)疊，居中縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)襯布拼(pin)(pin)接(jie)和(he)(he)收顙(sang)等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑦來去(qu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：將兩(liang)塊衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)疊合(he)，先沿毛口(kou)(kou)(kou)正面緝(ji)(ji)狹縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(3cm)再(zai)在反面緝(ji)(ji)闊縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(約7cm)。多用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)單衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)。⑧分(fen)緝(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)疊合(he)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)，縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)分(fen)開(kai)(kai)，兩(liang)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)各緝(ji)(ji)一(yi)(yi)道明線(xian)。常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)不易折(zhe)轉的(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(如皮革(ge))或(huo)(huo)線(xian)跡裝(zhuang)飾等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑨坐(zuo)緝(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)塊衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)，縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)傾(qing)倒，正面作第(di)二次(ci)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)。常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)作固(gu)定縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)或(huo)(huo)線(xian)跡裝(zhuang)飾。⑩分(fen)坐(zuo)緝(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)塊衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)先合(he)緝(ji)(ji)，將緝(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)傾(qing)倒縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)分(fen)開(kai)(kai)，在分(fen)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)上緝(ji)(ji)一(yi)(yi)道明線(xian)。服裝(zhuang)加工(gong)中多用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)布服裝(zhuang)的(de)前袖(xiu)(xiu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、褲襠縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、后縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)。壓緝(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(悶緝(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng))：上層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)折(zhe)光，覆蓋(gai)下(xia)(xia)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)，一(yi)(yi)次(ci)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)成型。多用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)前后過肩或(huo)(huo)呈圓弧型、尖角(jiao)型等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)部(bu)件(jian)的(de)裝(zhuang)接(jie)。漏落縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：明緝(ji)(ji)線(xian)漏落于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)分(fen)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)槽內或(huo)(huo)緊(jin)挨(ai)坐(zuo)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)沿，既(ji)能使線(xian)跡暗(an)藏，又能固(gu)定下(xia)(xia)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)。常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)裝(zhuang)腰頭(tou)、里(li)襟等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)。卷(juan)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)：用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)卷(juan)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)壓腳(jiao)或(huo)(huo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)手指將衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)毛口(kou)(kou)(kou)卷(juan)光。常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)單衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)或(huo)(huo)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)里(li)的(de)下(xia)(xia)口(kou)(kou)(kou)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)。倒回針(zhen)：在原線(xian)跡上往返縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)緝(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)始末加固(gu)，裝(zhuang)封口(kou)(kou)(kou)，叉封口(kou)(kou)(kou)，裝(zhuang)帶襻(pan)等(deng)(deng)(deng)(deng)。

　　現代(dai)(dai)服裝(zhuang)加(jia)工的(de)(de)主要機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)設(she)備，除高(gao)速(su)平縫(feng)(feng)縫(feng)(feng)紉(ren)(ren)機(ji)(簡稱平縫(feng)(feng)機(ji))外，還有多針多線包(bao)縫(feng)(feng)縫(feng)(feng)紉(ren)(ren)機(ji)(簡稱包(bao)縫(feng)(feng)機(ji))以及取代(dai)(dai)手工的(de)(de)開袋、鎖(suo)眼、釘扣、扎駁(bo)、復襯(衣面與衣襯組合)、裝(zhuang)袖、裝(zhuang)褲腰、打(da)褶等各種專用(yong)單機(ji)，并有多功(gong)能自動調(diao)速(su)固體(ti)電路電子(zi)縫(feng)(feng)紉(ren)(ren)機(ji)問世(shi)。20世(shi)紀(ji)80年代(dai)(dai)，較先進的(de)(de)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)設(she)備是(shi)自動縫(feng)(feng)紉(ren)(ren)系統(tong)，采用(yong)工業攝像機(ji)和電子(zi)計算(suan)機(ji)監控(kong)，能自動識別裁片的(de)(de)樣式，傳送(song)并進行自動分類控(kong)制。